General Heat Treating
Data for Various Metals

General Heat Treating Data for Various Metals
Special Thanks to Texas Knifemakers Supply for this Information

Specific Heat Treating Data

ATS 34, 154CM S.S. Heat Treat Procedure: Special Thanks to Koval Knives for this Information

This is an oil hardening grade of steel which will require oil quenching. The oil should be warm, thin quenching oil that contains a safe flash point. Olive oil has been used as a substitute. As a rule of thumb there should be a gallon of oil for each pound of steel. For warming the oil before quenching you may heat a piece of steel and drop in the oil.

1. Wrap blades in stainless tool wrap and leave an extra two inches on each end of the package (This will be for handling purposes going into the quench as described below). We suggest a double wrap for this grade. The edges of the foil should be double crimped being careful to avoid having even a pin hole in the wrap.

2. Place in furnace and heat to 1900°F. After reaching this temperature immediately start timing the soak time of 25 to 30 minutes. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

3. After the soak time has elapsed, very quickly and carefully pull the package out with tongs, place over the quench tank and snip the end of the package allowing the blades to drop in the oil. You should have a wire basket in the quench tank for raising and lowering the blades rather than have them lie still. Gases are released in the quench and would form a "trap" around the steel unless you keep them moving for a minute or so. IMPORTANT - It is very important that the blades enter the oil quench as quickly as possible after leaving the furnace! Full hardness would not be reached if this step is not followed.

4. After the blades are quenched down to near room temperature (preferably around 125°F) they must re-enter the furnace at 300°F. After they reach 300°F allow them to remain for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

5. Remove blades and place them aside for room temperature cooling.

6. After they have cooled to room temperature, place them back in the furnace at 275°F for 2 hours. Remove and check hardness. You should have approx. 60 RC. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

7. For extra stability and a point higher hardness you may pack blades in dry ice for one hour.

Note: All the above procedure is based on our own experience realizing there are others using their own trial-error. All equipment must be calibration checked periodically. There are no "short-cuts" for proper heat treating. Always exercise care and precaution.

1. Wrap blades in tool wrap. Double crimp all edges of the foil being careful to avoid having even a pin hole in the foil. You may double wrap fro extra assurance of locking out all oxygen. You may wrap the blades with 5-6 stacked side by side or individually wrap and place in an optional furnace rack. This rack will hold the blades in an upright position for minimizing warpage.

2. After placing the blades in the furnace heat to 1850°F. After reaching 1850°F start timing the soak time of 20 to 25 minutes. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

3. After the soak time has elapsed, carefully slide the blades on a steel grate or heavy wire mesh for room temperature cooling (This is the air quench). Place aside for cooling. The grate or wire mesh will allow air to circulate under the blades as well as around them for uniform quenching.

4. While the blades are cooling leave the furnace door open and allow it to come down to 220°F. Sometimes the blades willed be cooled before the furnace comes down. In this case keep the blades warm (place near the furnace door) or you may use the kitchen oven for drawing. It is important on all grades that they do not cool much below the 125°F temperature before drawing.

5. After placing the blades in the 220°F temperature they should remain at this heat for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

6. Pull the blades out for cooling and place them back at 200°F again for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

7. Check harness. You should have approx. 59 RC.

For extra stability you may freeze the blades in dry ice for one hour. This will also increase the hardness a point or two.

Note: All the above procedure is based on our own experience realizing there are others using their own trial-error. All equipment must be calibration checked periodically. There are no "short-cuts" for proper heat treating. Always exercise care and precaution.

This is an oil hardening grade of steel which will require oil quenching. The oil should be warm, thin quenching oil that contains a safe flash point. Olive oil has been used as a substitute. As a rule of thumb there should be a gallon of oil for each pound of steel. For warming the oil before quenching you may heat a piece of steel and drop in the oil.

1. There are two ways of giving 0-1a protective atmosphere before hardening: (A) You may use a non-scaling compound. It works very well for temperatures up to 1650°F. Heat the blades to 500°F, remove from furnace and roll them in a tray of compound. It will adhere to the steel and form an air tight blade. Replace in furnace and continue hardening steps. (B) The other choice is to wrap in tool wrap. When wrapping this grade allow an extra 2 inches on each end for handling purposes. Step 3 will describe further.

2. Place blades in the furnace and stand up on edge, you may use a special furnace rack for this purpose. Heat to 1450°F. As soon as this temperature is reached then begin soak time of 15 to 20 minutes. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

3. At this time the blades need to go into the oil very quickly. You should have a wire basket inside the quench tank. If the blades are wrapped in tool wrap, hold one end up and snip the other end of the foil allowing the blades to drop in the basket and into the oil. Raise and lower the basket for a minute or so for good oil circulation (This step is very important).

4. While the blades remain cooling set the furnace at 375°F. After the blades have cooled to approx. 125°F, place them in the furnace (at 375°F). Allow them to remain (draw) for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

5. Remove the blades, check for hardness after they are cool enough to handle. You should have approx. 60 to 62 Rc.

Note: All the above procedure is based on our own experience realizing there are others using their own trial-error. All equipment must be calibration checked periodically. There are no "short-cuts" for proper heat treating. Always exercise care and precaution.

1. Wrap blades in tool wrap. Double crimp all of the folded edges being careful to avoid having even a pin hole in the foil. The blades may be wrapped individually or stacked side by side (stack no more than 5 or 6 per pack for ease of handling). If they are wrapped individually you may consider placing them in an optional furnace rack. This rack will hold the blades in an upright position for minimizing warpage.

2. After placing the blades in the furnace, heat to 1850°F. After reaching 1850°F immediately start timing the soak time of 15-20 minutes. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

3. After the soak time has elapsed, carefully slide out of package onto a steel grate or wire mesh (this is the air quench).

4. While blades are cooling allow the furnace to cool down to 950°F.

5. When the package has cooled enough for handling, remove the foil. The blades should be warm (approx. 125°F). At this time place them back in the furnace at the 950°F temperature. After the blades have reached this temperature allow them to remain (draw) for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

6. Remove the blades for cooling down to room temperature and place them back in the furnace at 900°F again for 2 hours (this is a double temper we suggest for D-2). Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

7. After removing and cooled check hardness. You should have a 58 to 60 RC.

For extra stability and 1-1/2 points higher hardness you may pack blades in dry ice for 1 hour.

Note: All the above procedure is based on our own experience realizing there are others using their own trial-error. All equipment must be calibration checked periodically. There are no "short-cuts" for proper heat treating. Always exercise care and precaution.

1. Wrap blades in heat treat foil. Do not put any paper in foil. Preheat furnace to 1900°F. Place blade in furnace and watch controller. When temperature gets back up to 1900°F, let blades soak for 10 minutes (12 minutes for 1/4" blades). Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached. Do not soak blades any longer than specified time. The steel will decarburize and you will not know until you etch it. Also, do not exceed 1900°F.

2. Remove blades from furnace and cut foil open. Immediately remove blades and quench in light oil.

3. Place blades in freezer overnight or for 2 hours in dry ice.

4. Temper twice at 350°F for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

The heat treat temperatures for the random with CPM 440-V and 420-V core will be different. Harden at 1950°F and temper at 350°F. This will give you lower hardness readings on the outer steel if you check with a hardness tester, but the center core of the steel will be much harder. This will be on the cutting edge.

Heat Treating Instructions for Thunderforged® Damascus:

Special Thanks to Universal Agencies, Inc. (UAI) for providing this Information.

Step by Step  

1.  Heat blade to between 1,400 & 1,500 degrees F (760 & 815 degrees C).
2.  Quench in light oil or brine.
3.  Draw temper to desired hardness.
 

Heating the Blade

The blade should be evenly heated to a bright red/dull orange color.  This should be achieved between 1,400 & 1,500 degrees F (760 & 815 degrees C).  Be careful not to overheat.  Quenching an overheated blade will increase the change of cracking or warping.  Another good method it to heat the blade until the magnetic properties are lost.  To test that a blade is ready to quench a magnet may be used.  Once there is little or no attraction between the blade and magnet the blade will have reached the proper temperature and is ready to quench.
 

Quenching the Blade

Quenching is performed in either light oil (we recommend olive old with clove . quenches well we find), or a standard quenching oil.  Or use a brine solution (salt & water).  Dissolving salt in boiling water until it no longer dissolves makes a brine solution.  The brine quench will make the blade much harder as it will cool the steel much faster than the oil.  The oil quench is well suited to a large blade where toughness is more needed whereas the brine quench is more suited to the small skinner and folder blades where holding an edge is important.  The blade should be quenched either point first or spine first in order to minimize the chance of cracking or warping.  Care must be taken when quenching in brine.  The quicker the blade is cooled the more likely it is to crack.  A good precaution is to preheat the brine to around 100 degrees F (38 C) prior to quenching.  The oil quench is well suited to a large blade where toughness is more needed whereas the brine quench is more suited to the small skinner and folder blades where holding an edge is important.  The blade should be quenched either point first or spine first in order to minimize the chance of cracking or warping.
 

Drawing the Temper of the Blade

Drawing, or tempering the blade is done by heating the steel in an oven.  The blade is placed in a heat treat oven and brought to a specific temperature.  It is then allowed to soak at that temperature to assure a full even heat.  The specific temperature determines the relative hardness of the blade.  Below are listed the approximate Rockwell Hardness achieved at the various temperatures.  It should be noted that some parts of all nickel damascus may test somewhat softer due to the nickel content.
 

1095

 01

Note when heat treating multiple blades keep ample space between each blade for proper air circulation.

Thunderforged® is a registered trademark of Universal Agencies, Inc.^TM. All rights reserved.

©2004 Universal Agencies, Inc. Unauthorized Publication Prohibited

Etching Instructions for Thunderforged® Damascus: Special Thanks to Universal Agencies, Inc. (UAI)  for providing this Information.
 

Step by Step

1.  Clean blade with acetone.
2.  Soak in solution.
3.  Rinse in water & soap.
4.  Oil.

Detailed Instructions

Clean your blade very well in acetone.  At this point make sure you do not touch the blade with your hands, as the oils from your fingers will harm the end result.  We recommend that you use tweezers. Once the blade is totally dry you are ready to dip it in to the solution.
 

Dip the blade point down in to the glass or plastic container that is holding the etching solution. Leave the blade in there for about 15 to 20 minutes.  Pull the blade out after 15 minutes & inspect how the etch looks, if you need a higher contrast, again dip the blade back in the etching solution for additional time till you have reached the desired contrast.  Do regularly check on your blade while in the solution.

Once you have reached the desired contrast you pull the blade out and immediately rinse it in Luke warm water & rub hand soap on it simultaneously.  At this time you will notice that a black substance will be coming off, this is the carbon that was removed during the etching process.  Keep washing the blade until no more black carbon is coming off.

The next step is to oil your blade using good quality gun oil.

Even after you have oiled it, you can go back to step 1 to start all over to reach a higher contrast if desired.

Etching Solution Ingredients

50% PCB Etchant Solution (available at Radio Shack®) & mix with 50% White Vinegar.  Use a plastic or glass container to hold this solution DO NOT use a metal container.

Thunderforged® is a registered trademark of Universal Agencies, Inc.^TM. All rights reserved.

©2004 Universal Agencies, Inc. Unauthorized Publication Prohibited

Universal Agencies, Inc. (UAI)
4690 South Old Peachtree Rd
Suite C
Norcross, GA 30071-1517 USA